Somerset House 19th September 2011

So this season I have decided not to do London and not to do Paris either. London is not a surprise because I have only done London once, for my AW10. Paris was another matter. It was hard decision not to go to Paris. In fact I have a ticket but since I am not exhibiting, there is very little point in going over.

Anyway, I must confess to feeling a bit left out during London. I have just completed what I consider to be my best work to date but its like being all dressed up with nowhere to go. I have taken the opportunity to sample some of the atmosphere of LFW which lead me today to Somerset House. I stood and watched the Mark Fast show on the big screen but I mostly just stood and watched the scale and majesty that is the on-schedule LFW. It was a kind of wake up call, which I need every so often as I tend to work in a bubble.

I think my SS12 is a hell of an achievement and I am proud of it, but today, I realised my place in the scheme of things, fashion and I must push harder to be better. I think people will be surprised by my SS12 for many reasons but I think they will be shocked by what I will present for AW12. You have been warned.....

Deutsche Press

modacycle




To Yan is a magician, and this one unique. Elastic, shape into all of its importance, is not an obvious necessity in the selection of materials, but To revolt within this concept and really brings it to the front of the fashion industry with a collection heavy construction. Sure, there is a thorough departure from standards, with a growing entitlement. The core of this collection plays with elastic orientation. The material is curved and tightened so that fantastic, bizarre pants arise in different shades of black. But the most flattering pieces in the collection are varying body pliant clothes. However, normal body-hugging dresses accentuate each mass, collection and reduction. To restrict it by the clothes to create a more uniform character. Similarly, allow the continuous dark colors of this collection, Yan To to be adventurous and yet to develop a high portability of its design.
Experimentation is certainly an adequate description of Yan To AW11. The designer is committed to being fascinated by them, in ever greater way, both the processed material, as well as the forms which he seeks to manipulate. During the development of its elastic Techniques To Yan has placed emphasis on glass and stone effects. Astonishingly, the suppleness and elasticity are also distorted textures. However, the most visible in the experiment playfully sophisticated mastery of form. The Jackets take on a quality animal with black leather ruched sleeves, like wearing the skin of an armadillo. Already on the hanger, twist and lean and magically make these sleeves to wear to a comprehensive transformation process of the garment. To create this kind of stimulating such illusions by observation and wearing the clothes is something that Yan To express and expand his collection with the upcoming summer collection, still wants to SS12. To be sure outstanding as a participating designer at the London Press Week was. He was the sole designer of the new "look" for an audience and has created with this model, needles, elastic cords and seasonal absences with a dramatic come goldverkrusteten embodied showing his fearlessness itself. The home of Harrods, who have only just taken over the collection to the range is clear that To Yan is a young designer, which you should keep in mind. His mentality that travels to work in the clothing design process is sure to leave a big plus.

Elastic Fantastic

Elastic Fantastic

Reflections on Fashion Press Week

Fashion Press week has come and gone and I have had time to reflect on this event.

For me, it probably has more significance than most designers showing, as I do not have a PR agency working on my behalf. It’s a long story but I had a major disagreement with a London PR agency back in February 2010 and it left such a bad taste in my mouth that I have not appointed another one since.

Anyway, this was the first time I had showed a collection in London since February 2010 so it was a bit of a novel experience for me. In all honesty, I would not have even considered showing at Fashion Press Week, purely down to cost, if it hadn’t been for a competition run by the organisers, sponsors, Mishcon de Reya and the Fahion Business Club. 8 lucky designers won a a free space within One Marylebone and I for one was mightily appreciative.

As I am not based in London, I used this opportunity to create a couple of SS12 sample pieces live on my stand along with Mary Benson, a fellow designer, who gives me a hand from time to time.

SS12 is a departure for me as the first three collections were all about exploring techniques and working with elastics. SS12 is the depiction of a single day in my life in the countryside. The two themes I wanted to explore were the “red sky at night” and the unstoppable advance of what I call “creeping vines” which are strangling mature trees around me.

Given that the first Fashion Press Week had attracted over one hundred exhibitors and the second one had dropped to below thirty, I didn’t have any real expectations for the event. For me, the chance of creating live samples was enough.

I was actually pleasantly surprised by the quality of visitors including Harpers Bazaar, Vogue and You Magazine. It was really great to catch up with people who had supported me in the past such as Rachel Oku.

It was also really great to meet other designers such as Linnie Mclarty and the Hemyca duo. It was also good to show alongside my fashion “brother” Viking Wong and his enormous entourage.

I really enjoyed and in some respects, needed the feedback on my work as I have been away for such a long time. It gave me the reasurance that I am indeed doing something very unique.

The most interesting observation I made, however, is that in spite of me presenting techniques that had not been seen before and indeed creating entirely unrehearsed pieces live, there seemed to be a section of visitors who would glance quickly at my stand then be rush over in excitement to the t shirts in the stand opposite. How fashion is that?

Fashion Press Week Day 2

The second dress is inspired by "Red sky at night." This was one of the sights that inspired me to create my first themed collection. SS12, provisionally titled "The nature of me" 
In some respects it was harder to represent this that the creeping vines from day 1 in terms of capturing the power and drama of a red sunset.
The blue is roughly cut and ripped open to expose the colour beneath the way that I see the sun rip through the fabric of the twilight sky. The colour extends over the shoulder and disappears in the night sky....

In some respects it was harder to represent this that the creeping vines from day 1 in terms of capturing the power and drama of a red sunset. The blue is roughly cut and ripped open to expose the colour beneath the way that I see the sun rip through the fabric of the twilight sky. The colour extends over the shoulder and disappears in the night sky....

Fashion Press Week Day 1

I took the chance of starting my SS12 sampling at Fashion Press Week. SS12 is inspired by my surroundings. I live and create in the countryside. This particular piece reflects the way that creeping vines have destroyed the fabric of brick walls and have even suffocated a number of mature trees this year. This dress symbolises the day when the vine eventually reaches up to strangle the sky and the battle that leaves the vine defeated bar a single solitary stem.
The leaves are actual leaves cut from a creeping vine and sprayed with the colour of decay. They are fragile and are intended to break and crumble the way the would do in reality.

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