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Thursday 9 February 2012

The Anatomy of a Design AW12

Those of you who follow my work, know I work extensively with elastics. The elastic pieces are created by weaving elastics onto a dress base and sewing them into position. 

When I started AW12, I was obsessed with the idea that the dress base could be dispensed with altogether and a dress could be made by attaching the elastic strips together. There are of course a number of issues which make this an almost pointless task but sometimes in order to move an idea forward you have to pursue the seemingly pointless.

Anyway. The first issue is shape so I chose to work with my number one mannequin and laid out a rough shape. 


The dress had to be taken off and sewn after positioning a few strips of elastic, in order to maintain integrity of shape and strength.



 The solid ares had to be gridded out.


The design just kind of happened as the dress started to take shape. The original intention was to create a short dress but the elastics were draping so beautifully that it made more sense to carry on.


The chest was especially challenging, to create a 3D structure.

The base of the dress was left with trailing strips of elastic paying homage to the composition of the dress. From laying the first grid to sewing trimming the last thread, the dress took 62 hours to make, or in fashion designer days, 3. 


It is a process which I find absorbing and although time consuming, the results speak for themselves. This design is going to be available to our couture clients only, as it has to be made to fit perfectly. The costs involved are actually a whole lot less than a wedding dress.......now that's a thought......








Yan To - somethings